5. Nenogongen Temple and Takedera Temple Trail　（子の権現・竹寺）

Trail Location: Start: Nishi-Agano station, Seibu Chichibu line
　　　　Goal: Kodono Bus Stop (or Sawarabi-no-yu Bus Stop)
Access From Tokyo, take an express train or a limited express train on the Seibu Ikebukuro line at Ikebukuro to Hanno. From there, take the Seibu Chichibu line to Nishi-Agano station. The trip takes 70 to 90 minutes. On the way back, take a bus to Hanno station and take a train on the Seibu Ikebukuro line back to Tokyo.

Total Length: 8.7km
Course Time: 4 hours
Elevation Difference: 385m
Difficulty Rating: 2 (easy)
* Difficulty ratings: (1)beginner, (2) easy, (3) moderate, (4) strenuous

Trail Features

・ Beautiful countryside and mountains covered with green leaves and flowers. Autumn foliage along the trails most beautiful during mid to end November.
・ Visiting two historic Buddhist temples of the Tendai Sect of esoteric Buddhism. Both of them have a torii gate at the entrance indicating the merger of Shinto and Buddhism, one of religious characteristics in Japan. Panoramic views from these temples especially clear in the late autumn.
・ After the trekking, shojin-ryori, a Buddhist vegetarian dish, is available at Takedera Temple (reservation required).
・ As an option, you can refresh yourself at Sawarabi-no-yu hot spring baths before returning home.

Trail Description

Highlights of this trip, in addition to trekking in the woods, are two historic Buddhist temples. Nenogongen Temple, established in 832, is a historic temple of Tendai sect of esoteric Buddhism. “Nenogongen” literally means a manifestation of Buddha in the form of a Shinto kami “Ne”, the founder of this temple. As Ne had pain in his back and legs, the temple offers lower-body relief to worshippers, symbolized by a pair of giant straw sandal monument hung in the precinct. Takedera Temple, established in 857, enshrines a Buddhist deity of healing and medicine to take care of sick people prevalent back in those days. At Takedera Temple, shojin-ryori, a Buddhist vegetarian dish, is available (reservation required). Both of the temples show the merger of Buddhism and Shinto, one of the characteristics of religions in Japan.

From Nishi-Agano station, go left on Route 299 and then turn right at the junction of the Koyuka Bridge. After about 30-minutes-walk on the country roads, you will reach the Trailhead where a small red torii gate stands on your right. Enter the trails that go along a stream. Climb up the switchbacks in the woods until you reach the ridge where an old stone sign indicating the 12th leve1 is placed. Proceed ahead the uphill and the ridge covered with cypress trees until you hit a paved road. Just after walking another 200 meters, you will reach Nenogongen Temple. Here you first go through a torii gate, a symbol of Shinto, then a black temple gate and a pair of guardian gods, symbols of Buddhism. The combination or merger of Buddhism and Shinto is one of the characteristics of religions in Japan.

Nenogongen Temple, established as a Buddhist temple more than 1,100 years ago, is known for its giant straw sandal monument. It attracts worshippers seeking lower-body health and back and leg pain relief. You can get a talisman in the shape of a straw sandal that heals and protects your back and feet. Before leaving here, don’t forget to visit the bell tower in the back of main hall.

To continue on to Takedera Temple, follow the trails in the west of Nenogongen Temple. Go straight at the junction right after. If you turn right here, it would take you to Mt. Izugatake. Proceed ahead to the south and go straight the Mameguchi Pass. The trail continues along the stream and after a while it will hit Takedera Temple. The temple has a restaurant where shojin ryori, a Buddhist vegetarian dish, is served (reservation required).

Takedera Temple also has the characteristics of both Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines. At the entrance is a Shinto torii gate with a large straw circle. Worshippers will be purified by going through the torii gate. A big bronze Buddhist statue of guardian god is placed in the precinct. The scenery of bamboo grove in the south of the temple is quite breathtaking. From the bell tower of the temple, the mountains beyond Lake Naguri will come into view.

To return home, walk down the paved roads to Kodono bus stop. If you wish to have a bath, another 30-minutes-walk will take you to the Sawarabi-no-yu hot spring baths. There is a bus stop near the facility.

From here, it takes about 45 minutes by bus to Hanno station. From there, by train on the Seibu Ikebukuro line back to Ikebukuro station.

Translator: Shuji Ozaki　Author: Toru Sasaki